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Forget about after-dark enchantment. Although San Francisco’s Chinatown has plenty of that, it’s at its very best in early morning. That’s when Chinatown belongs to the some 100,000 people who live there.

Shopper’s Specials

Women in quilted jackets make their way through wisps of fog, shopping bags on their arms. They chatter with their friends in the cadences of Yunnan or Kwangsi province while inspecting dai kon, bitter melon and fresh ginger piled high in wooden produce boxes outside shops with names like Canton Market and Lee Yuen., then make their ways down streets and through narrow doorways to their flats above the shops.

The grocery shops used to be on Grant Avenue, Chinatown's principal thoroughfare. Now, most of them are concentrated along Stockton Street between Pacific Avenue and Broadway, one block west. Inside the stores, huge plastic bags of dried mushrooms lean against 100-pound sacks of rice. Plastic packets of dried fish snacks, rice crackers and pickled fruits share the shelves with Heinz Ketchup and Hamburger Helper. Baskin Robbins, with all 31 flavors listed in Chinese characters, is open for business, too.

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